Roman Alex

Extreme Faster Verified Trusted Prime Seller
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Verified Trusted Seller
Apr 1, 2019
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Russia
www.russiancarders.se
#1
What is Carding?
According to Wikipedia “Carding is a term describing the trafficking of credit card, bank account and other personal information online as well as related fraud services. Activities also encompass procurement of details, and money laundering techniques. Modern carding sites are described as full-service commercial entities.”
In easy way we can describe it as : It is simply a trick to shop any product from the online website like Amazon and Flipkart with a fake credit card or hacked credit card and details. Some hackers hack someone credit card and use it to buy online products with their details.
Types of Carding:
According to some great carders, there are three types/levels of carding. They are listed as:


  • Level 1 Carding / Easy Carding
In this level the carder (Person who do carding) do carding of very cheap goods. For example: restaurant bills, small phone call bills, etc. Mostly in this level the carder use to do carding of goods below 50$. This is known as the entry level carding.


  • Level 2 Carding / Intermediate Carding
In this level the carder do carding of slightly higher goods like background reports, or very small physical items like some clothes of other things. Mostly in this level the carder use to do carding of goods below 50$. The different between the Level 1 and Level 2 carding is that Level 2 do carding of physical items.

  • Level 3 Carding / Hard Carding
This is regarded as the advance carding. In this level the carder do carding of everything this includes: cellphones , laptops and other goods. Mostly in this level the carder use to do carding of goods above 50$ and the upper limits is not fixed.
Check : Best Cordless Leaf Blower
We suggest that if you want to start your life as carder mover from level 1 to 3 gradually. Don’t try to go on Hard Carding if you have no idea of carding because it may end up you at jail.



Level 1: Easy Carding

  • Credit Card Number
  • Expiration date
Level 2: Intermediate Carding


  • Credit Card Number
  • Expiration Date
  • CCV Code
  • Card Holder Name
  • Full Billing Adress
  • Sometimes, phone number of the account
Level 3: Hard Carding

  • Credit Card Number
  • Expiration Date
  • CCV Code
  • Card Holder Name
  • Full Billing Address
  • SSN
  • Date of Birth
  • Recommended, background report
How it Works?
If you are aiming for Level 1 carding, you just need to call for pizza and order the pizza to another address, no need to write lengthy paragraphs on this one. This is easy one and is pretty straight forward.
If you are aiming for Level 2 Carding , you can card background report or small physical items mostly under 150$. All orders are done online and you will have to enter the correct billing address, shipping address and card information. Now, you must see if the website says billing phone number on file with the bank or simply contact number.If the website asks for billing phone number, you have to put the phone number on file with the bank for the cardholder, otherwise it is safe to put your burner phone number.
Now, Is the website going to call you?
It depends on the order, their policy and their suspicion about you.


( So there’s no safe answer to the question)
Remember Carding is often Trial and error
Professional Tips:
When, you use a card to hit a website, do not hit another website with the same card until your order has shipped.
A level 2 site that is often carded is peoplefinders.com . This is the website where carders get most of their background reports. It is good playground to test your skills and will prove useful later.


On Level 3, probably you have seen the information required from Part 2. Now how to get it? If your subject is aged under 40, chances are that you are under luck. Otherwise, read on
Level 3 Carding
First, you need the right type of card. This is called finding the right BIN (Bank Identification Number). To learn more, go to Bindb.com, at the top go on Bin Search and enter the first 6 digits of the card. They will tell you the issuing bank, and card type. You have debit and credit cards, and the card type can vary from weakest to strongest, they are:


  • Secured: Very low limits , sometimes around $300
  • Classic: Low limits, sometimes around $1000
  • Gold: Average limits, can be around $3000
  • Platinum: High limits, can be around $8000
  • Business: Very high limits, in the 5 digits, often around $15,000
  • Signature: The best ones, I got cards that had $30,000 of credit limi
Note that those numbers are subject to change according to the card holder’s credit score, history, and spending patterns. For the benefit of this guide we will only work with credit cards. By experience, debit card often do not have funds, and have tight security for online purchases. In other words, they are rubbish for Level 3 Carding, but may have other uses like Level 1 or Level 2 Purchase.
Register and account on any SSN finder site such as ssnfinder.ru or ssndob.cc and look for subject. At the same time, go on peoplefinders.com and get the full background report of your subject using a Level 2 Card. Once you have the background report, look if the addresses and DOB match on the report and on backstab. If everything matches, you can assume the SSN will be correct. Use your common sense to compare the the backstab and people finders report to make sure you don’t get the wrong information. About 80% of the subjects over 40 years old can be found.
You have SSN and DOB. Great! now, time to get the mother maiden name. This is slightly harder and will work if your victim is one of those states: Arizona, California, Delaware, Idaho, Indiana, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Ohio, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Texas. Go on archives.com and card an account, then look for your subject’s mother (Look at the background report for her name and date of birth) and try to look for her birth record. this is a trial and error case and works 50% of the time.


Why get all the information?
Because many level 3 swites will have either VBV (Verifies by VISA) or MCSC ( MasterCard Secure Code) protection during checkout. This is a form that is presented by the issuing bank of the credit card and asks for additional questions. Although every type of card is different the commonly asked questions are:


  • Date of Birth
  • Last 4 digits of SSN
  • Full Name on Card
  • Billing zip code
If you fail any of these questions, the order will not go through.


Do you dream of carding thousands of dollars worth of computer hardware on Newegg? It’s doable, but not easy. You have to follow the right steps. I carded a $10,000 gaming rig in under 2 weeks using platinum cards by following that guide, so I’m in position to tell you how.
First thing, check the balance of your credit card. Now, before going crazy, remember this rule of thumb: Do not use card checkers! They burn the card very quick. Let me explain.
Every transaction automatically gets a fraud score between 0 and 999. The system used to evaluate transactions is the same used by the big 4 banks and is called Fair Issac. Transactions having a fraud score over 300 will hit manual review by an agent, who will decide if they contact the cardholder or just let it though. Scores over 500 with auto-decline, block the card, and an agent will contact the cardholder. Some banks have different criterias, but things that can affect the fraud score are:


  • Comparison with the usual spending pattern of the cardholder
  • Location of the charge
  • Amount
  • Risk factor of the associated merchant
For example, a $20 charge in the cardholder’s local Walmart will not trigger anything, but a large purchase of $2000 on Newegg.com will have a high fraud score and probably auto-decline if the cardholder rarely makes online purchases.
Table of Contents hide
1 So how is this relevant?
2 Chase Bank – 1-800-432-3117
3 Citibank – 1-800-627-3999
4 Bank of America – 1-888-421-2110
5 Capital One – 1-800-955-7070
So how is this relevant?
A small card-not-present charge followed by a big charge will make the fraud score very high, because they assume you are testing the card. If they see a small $1 charge, then a few minutes later a large purchase online, they will auto-decline the card and your plan will likely fail.


There are much better ways to check if a card works. The best way is to call the bank’s toll-free number and use the automated prompts. This brings no danger, however use Spooftel to spoof your number to display the cardholder’s number. Once you do that, you are ready to call the issuing bank’s number and check how much is left on the card. Let’s get to it.
Call the bank using your burner phone and have in hand the following information, according to the bank. The automated prompt will give you access to the transaction list, balance, and a few other options. Here is the information for the biggest 4 banks:
Chase Bank – 1-800-432-3117


  • Full card number
  • Zip code
Note: If you correctly spoofed the phone number, you will only be asked for the last 4 digits of the card, otherwise you will be asked for the full card number.
Citibank – 1-800-627-3999


  • Full card number
  • Last 4 digits of SSN
Bank of America – 1-888-421-2110

  • Full card number
  • Zip code
Capital One – 1-800-955-7070

  • Full card number
  • Last 4 digits of SSN
If, for any bank, you enter the card number and the system immediately transfers you to an agent without additional questions, it means the account is closed and the card is burnt. No need to waste time on this one, just hang up and use another card. The agent will only tell you the same thing, and you will look dumb.
It’s always a good practice to take note of the last transactions and amounts, just in case you get asked for them later. Listen to them and write them down, I recommend up to 8 transactions for maximum safety.
So you have the balance and the available credit line now. Nice! So you know how much you can spend online. Before you go crazy though, there is one more obstacle you need to be aware of: many sites like Newegg or TigerDirect refuse to ship to an address that is not on file with the bank. And chances are that your cardholder does not reside at your drop address. Here is how we will solve this problem, introducing the Account Take-Over fraud, also known as ATO.
ATO is the process in which a fraudster (you) calls the bank to make whatever changes he wants to the account, without the cardholder knowing. This involves speaking with a customer service agent and using social engineering. Before you even think about pressing 0 to speak to an agent, make sure you have, at the very least, the following information in hand:


  • Full card number, expiration date, CCV code
  • Full billing address of the cardholder (and county)
  • Date of birth (and write down the age too, not just the DOB)
  • SSN
  • MMN (Mother Maiden Name)
  • Employer name (facultative, if possible, try to find it on Facebook)
  • Car make and model (facultative, if possible, try to do a Google StreetView on the CH’s house)
  • House size and value (facultative, if possible find it in realestate.com as this is public information)
  • Driver’s license number, expiration, state (facultative)
  • Previous addresses
  • Background report
In case you do not have the MMN, try to guess using common last names in the background report. If you really cannot find it, sometimes it is possible to get around it with other questions. Once you have this information in hand, study it, try to remember it. Remember, you are the cardholder, the card is yours, and you are confident, just like when you call your own bank for a legitimate request.
When you call the bank, you will be usually asked for 3 security tokens. Those tokens can be, but are not limited to: DOB, SSN, Address, CCV code, cellphone, MMN. If you fail 1 token, you will be asked 2 more. At this point, 2 things can happen:


  1. You did it correctly, so the agent will listen to you and will do whatever request you have to do on the CH’s account, and no flags will be raised.
  2. The agent suspects an ATO is occuring, and transfers you do the securiy department. This is called the Verid department, and you will be asked 2 OoW (Out of Wallet) questions. Those are multiple-choice questions based on the cardholder’s credit history and public records. They can be easy or tricks, it’s random every time it happens. If you fail those, they will tell you that they can’t help you and will suggest you show up in person at your bank. They will also ring the cardholder. So if you fail this one, forget this card, it’s burnt to a crisp.
The first thing you want to do on the account is change the billing phone number. Only that. Do nothing else, as making too many changes will raise a red flag on the account. Call to change the main billing number and let the card sit still for at least 5 days.
All right, are you ready?
Relax, sit in your favorite couch, call the bank, listen to the prompts, and press 0. The message goes on, this call may be recorded for quality purposes.


Why Order Gets Canceled?
When a website receives an order of about $1000, we understand that they try to protect themselves. What is the first thing that a website will do to verify the order? That’s right, they will call the issuing bank and will check if the billing phone number you entered is correct, otherwise they will ask for it, and will ring it. You can receive the call, or the cardholder will, depending if you ATO’d the account correctly.
This is why orders get canceled when newbies enter a credit card order and expect to receive a free iPhone from the Apple store. They are not fools and want to protect themselves. However, if you took care of changing the billing number on file, you will get the call and you will be able to confirm the order.
Not so fast, a call is not simply “is everything okay?”, but rather a verification call where they want to see if you are really the cardholder or not. They sometimes ask you for verification questions similar to Verid questions, but all the questions are taken from public reports. They can also ask you if you put the shipping address on file with the bank (you hopefully did), and they will call the bank to verify. Also, in some rare cases, they can make a conference call with you and the bank, but you will be asked for the usual questions, which means last 4 of SSN, DOB, last transactions, etc.
If you are a newbie and just put some credit card information on a website hoping to get a free iPhone, you will just see the order passing to Canceled state without any details and you will not even get a call. This is the reason why people post threads about “carding does not work” and get the same answers.
If you passed the verification call, the representative will tell you that everything is okay and that they will have the order shipped out today. This is good news! At this stage, I received 100% of my items, I never had problems past the verification stage. Now you may be tempted to hit another site; resist to the temptation. You ATO’d card can almost be considered a level 4 card, at you own the account and can do whatever you want, so it has a high sentimental value. Wait for the order to ship and the package to leave the merchant before you hit another webstore.


I recommend carding in the morning, to avoid letting a charge sit on the card for too long. You never know how often a cardholder checks his statement online. I had cards that died within hours, and other ones lasted 3 months. Once the package is shipped, you can card another store, no need to call the bank, as your drop address is already on file. Repeat until the card is burnt. Once it is burnt, never show your face at the drop again. The alternate address is on the bank’s records and they can send Law Enforcement to this place. A drop is like a condom, use it once, do all your business, and trash it, because it becomes dirty.
Another verification step they can take is send you an e-mail asking for scans of your ID documents, such as passport and driver’s license. These can easily be photoshopped and there are templates available everywhere. Utility bills are pretty easy to forge too, so don’t worry about this part. Do what you have to do, but be quick.
Another step you can take, is to put the shipping name on the package to a family member of yours, for example if the cardholder’s name is James Latyon, send the package to a certain Harry Layton (find a name that’s on the report and have their DOB, in case) and say you are sending the package to your son / brother / whatever relationship you have on your report.
Also, keep in mind that no method is perfect, and the website can cancel the order simply because they feel it is not safe to process it. Nothing is perfect, but if you ATO’d the account successfully, it should be easy. Remember to stay under $2000 per order. You never know what other tricks they may use to catch you.
Always choose the fastest shipping method. Some say it raises flags, but if you did everything else correctly, that will not be the reason why your order fails. Besides, it greatly reduces your chances of getting an intercepted package, which is a pain in the ass and makes your efforts worthless.
This brings me to the topic of finding a drop to ship your order to. You can ship it to your house without any problem, if you want the police to knock at your door and make you ride dirty to the police station, and get in a steaming pile of shit of trouble. So read on to find out how to ship your order safely.
 

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